Bridging The Tyne....

I made a return to the North East the other week, where I managed to re-visit some old favourite haunts as well as taking in some new places in and around the magnificent riverscape of the Tyne....

I had booked a Tuesday night away in Newcastle to coincide with Halifax Town's evening match across the river in Gateshead. It was my first overnight in central Newcastle since the back end of 2021, and so as my train speeded north passing the grandeur of Durham Cathedral, I was looking forward to a return visit to one of my favourite cities, which last time I had only briefly visited with our Tom the afternoon before a family do in the evening almost a year ago. The train crossed the bridge over the Tyne way down below just before pulling into the station, and minutes later I was walking those familiar streets with my rucksack on my shoulder and heading down the cobbles beside the castle towards the Quayside.

As I walked down Side a familiar building came into view. Of course there was no way I was going to miss the opportunity to call in the Crown Posada, having had only a quick pint here on my last visit to the Toon. I walked in to that familiar doorway, and through into the narrow pub. The bar was pretty quiet, with just two guys at one end of it, and a few tables occupied in the seating area beyond. There was a pint of Two by Two Nelson Sabro on one of the hand pumps, so I had no hesitation in ordering a pint of it as, save for a recent pint of theirs in the Enigma Tap in North Shields a few weeks earlier, I hadn't had any of their beers for ages. Wow, it was stunning, an opaque orange magic potion with an explosion of fruity notes with hints of coconut from the Sabro hop (a very rare NBSS 4.5). And so of course I had to have another in this wonderful pub with its beautiful interior before I walked along to the Travelodge and got checked in.

Crown Posada: stunning beer in a stunning interior

Bag dropped off, I headed out for a walk along the Quayside beside the Tyne. Despite the generally cold weather, some beautiful sunny weather warmed the spring air so it was actually quite a pleasant afternoon. The buildings and the bridges spanning the river were as impressive as ever. I walked up the steps from the riverside to the Free Trade Inn. I ordered a pint of Almasty Echelon, natch, but there was an impressive range of beers on as usual as well. I had chosen well, this pale hazy delight, which I reckoned was worth a NBSS rating of 4. What a welcome back the Toon was giving me!

Two of my favourite pubs in the area done, and rather than going to another one, the Cumberland Arms, with food in mind I headed instead to The Cluny, which is situated in part of an old mill beside the Ouseburn Beck. A music venue as well as a cool bar with a good range of beers on cask and keg, I hadn't visited since that weird interregnum between lockdowns. This time I was able to walk the bar without maintaining social distance and grab a seat indoors, which instantly made the visit more enjoyable than last time. I ordered a pint of another Almasty beer, this time it was Australian Pale, which was very good, and whilst a rating of  NBSS 3.5 would normally be extremely acceptable (and it was here), it felt slightly disappointing, but to be fair as it had just been preceded by two exceptionally good beers. Duly fed and watered, I turned my attention to the main business in hand, which was to get a few new pubs ticked off before the football kicked off at 7.45. 

The Cluny; the bar is in the right side of the building

A few minutes later, I was heading back into the city centre courtesy of an Uber, with the aim of visiting one of the three new entries in this year's Good Beer Guide. This was the Wobbly Duck, situated in Eldon Square, near the shopping centre of the same name. It is situated in a basement in a Georgian terrace, rather like the Town Mouse a few streets away. It is a sister bar to the Beer Street micro pub, situated in a railway arch on Forth Street round the back of the station, which I had last visited about 18 months ago, when a cock-up in changing jackets which had left me bereft of a woolly hat led to me buying a branded Wobbly Duck beanie hat to ward off some very cold weather. Now I love my hat, and I've always liked Beer Street, and here the beer, this time Almasty Green, was fine (NBSS 3.5), the decor attractive, and as I enjoyed my beer there was a steady stream of customers coming in for a relaxing pint after work or shopping. A worthy addition - it opened in 2021 - to the local beer scene.

The Wobbly Duck (it's down the stairs)

It was then a couple of minutes' walk to Monument metro station. A friend had recommended I visited the Wheat Sheaf in Felling, which I discovered was only one stop along from the International Stadium, my destination for the evening's - er - entertainment. Not long afterwards I alighted the metro in this suburb of Gateshead, and the pub was only a short walk away from the station, once I had got my bearings. Situated at the end of a terrace with an attractive exterior, the pub dates from 1907, and is one of only two tied houses run by the Big Lamp Brewery, who celebrated 40 years in 2022. I walked into a scene that was like stepping back into another time. There was a long attractive bar on the right as you walk in. At the far end of the room, a lit fire offered a warm welcome as the evening air outside chilled following the relative warmth of the day's sunshine. There was the reassuring tick of a clock. It was immaculately clean and it felt very homely, and there were a few people sat nursing their drinks near the fire or at the bar. I ordered a pint of Big Lamp Bitter, which was another fine beer (NBBS 3.5). The pleasant lady behind the bar told me she was the landlady, along with her mum, and although I had one more place to call before the match, I went for a quick half of the premium Princes Bishop Ale, a deceptive 4.8% golden ale which was very easy to drink (NBSS 3.5). A great traditional pub.

The Wheat Sheaf, Felling...a great traditional pub

I was not finished. The Wheat Sheaf is at number 26 Carlisle Street, whilst just up the road at numbers 10 - 14 is the Old Fox, which as it happens is a sister pub to the just-visited Wobbly Duck, plus of course Beer Street. So I popped in. The pub sign was dimly lit, and it was fairly quiet within. There were people there, but it lacked the warmth of its near neighbour. I ordered a pint of Jarl from the always reliable Fyne Ales, which was enjoyable (NBSS 3), but unfortunately the pub just didn't do it for me. No engagement from the bar staff is always a disappointment, unless of course it is crazy busy, which it wasn't. Hopefully it was just that night, as my impression was slightly at odds with the description in the Good Beer Guide as a "friendly and welcoming pub". 

The Old Fox, Felling

Anyway, it was back to catch the Metro to go watch the football, too late to call in another GBG pub in Gateshead, the Schooner, situated on the banks of the Tyne, which I had enjoyed on a previous visit. Gateshead is allegedly the coldest place in the country to watch football, the International Stadium with its vast uncovered stands ideal for watching an athletics meeting on a sunny June afternoon, but watching football on a cold winter's evening is only for the hardy, the foolhardy, or any passing polar bears. At least the football club had recognised this, and for once the away fans were being accommodated in the large stand normally only used by the home fans, which affords a little more protection against the weather than the small stand across the other side of the stadium where we are normally housed. Despite this, it was still very cold, and the football did little to raise the temperature, the teams playing out a fairly tepid 0-0 draw.

The vast open spaces of the International Stadium, home of Gateshead FC

I walked back towards the Sage Theatre, as I knew that close by there was a micro pub that I had never tried. This was Microbus, which is located in a railway arch close to the Gateshead end of the High Level Bridge. It is a shrine to campervans and, more specifically, the VW camper, with the bar fashioned out of the front of one. The place is quirkily decorated and as well as a bus stop in the middle of the bar, a live display on one wall gives the time of buses for the stop outside the door. It was busy, and I had a half of a 4.2% Pale from North Pier, a new brewery to me, based in the County Durham town of Tow Law (NBSS 3), and then to finish off, I had somewhat appropriately, a half of Extra Dark on keg from Edinburgh brewery, Campervan (NBSS 3). A great little micro pub. And then it was back over a draughty High Level Bridge to Newcastle and a good night's sleep in the Travelodge.

Microbus, Gateshead: quirky and friendly

The following morning, over breakfast, I had the idea of pulling together a blog covering some of the pubs of Gateshead. I had already visited the two pubs in Felling and Microbus the previous evening, and so after crossing the Millennium Bridge and spending the customary cultural time at the Baltic Exchange, I could go check out the Central as I hadn't been it since it became part of the Head of Steam group, Station East, and make a first visit to Axis, a micro pub just along from the Microbus. It sounded like a plan.

However, it was not to be. When I arrived at the Central, it was closed and not due to open till 3, by which time I was due to get the train back home. Across the road, Station East was similarly closed. My plans thwarted, I walked around the corner and found Microbus to be open. I popped in for a consolatory pint, the place at pre-12.30 already relatively busy. I ordered a pint of Time After Time from Black Storm Brewery (subsequently I heard the news that sadly the brewery, who had most recently been based in North Shields, had called time and gone into administration) which was a hazy pale featuring Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic hops which made for a pleasant drink (NBSS 3), although at 5% it was a somewhat chunky start to the day.

The Central: sadly not open yet

I decided to cut my losses and head back over the other side of the river. I spotted Axis, like Microbus housed in a railway arch, which was similarly closed. A guy inside spotted me peering in and came to the door, apologising that they wouldn't be able to open until 4 as they were in the middle of sorting stock out. No worries, I'd call back next time, I said. As a few snowflakes fluttered down in the cold air, I went for my second walk in little over 12 hours across the High Level Bridge, this time joined by a steady stream of honking, spluttering vehicles. I reached the other side, passed the castle, and dropped down to the Crown Posada for some more Two by Two, this time the single hop Talus, a majestic hazy 6% IPA with hints of grapefruit, citrus, and pine (NBSS 4). It was a fitting bookend to an excellent 24 hours spent on both sides of the Tyne....

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