Through The Garden Gate To The Tetley....

I went over to Leeds last weekend for a wander around which took in a visit to the newly re-opened Tetley, but first I called in at one of the city's finest architectural gems....

The Garden Gate is one of Leeds' most historic pubs, with a spectacular Grade II-listed interior which is up there with the finest not just in the city but in the country as a whole. Situated in the area of Hunslet about two miles out of the city centre in the middle of an unassuming low-rise housing estate, it stands alone on a quiet pedestrianised street in what was once one of the city's main industrial areas. This large and sprawling suburb grew from the early 19th century when several mills were built for spinning flax, and other industries in the area developed including the manufacture of chemicals, glassware, and pottery, with heavy engineering becoming particularly important. And to water the workers pubs such as the Garden Gate were built, although few could match its magnificence.

Despite having been closed for a year until the pub re-opened in February this year, the Garden Gate is a true survivor; just as much of the traditional industry that once occupied Hunslet and South Leeds has gone, so have so many of the old traditional pubs, many owned by Tetleys whose huge brewery was just down the road. A trawl through the archives left me staggered at the sheer number of pubs that have disappeared from this part of the city over the past 40 years. Names such as the Gardeners Arms, the Sun, the Engine, the Crooked Billet, the Brassmoulders, the Craven Gate, the Spotted Dog, and the Blooming Rose are just a few of those that have gone, as are a couple I passed boarded up on the taxi journey, the Mulberry and the Crown Hotel. Busy pubs serving both the factory and mill workers, and the local communities surrounding them. All of which makes the fact that the Garden Gate is still here all the more remarkable.

I had been thinking of going to check it out anyway, but when my good mate Alex (aka Quosh) sent me a few photos after he'd visited a few days earlier, it inspired me into getting myself into gear and fit a visit in around a trip I'd already planned to the newly-revamped Tetley. I could have walked I suppose, but in the end rather than the half hour or so journey, I enlisted the services of Mr Uber and a few minutes later Mohammed was dropping me off beside this large brick and tile edifice at 3, Whitfield Place. Garden and Gate were etched into the tiles above the large windows either side of the door, a St George's Flag in each, with the one to the right embellished with a Yorkshire Rose, a Leeds United badge, and Garden Gate Whites emblazoned across the red cross, leaving no doubt as to where the affiliations of those within lay. Indeed as I walked in loud cheers rang out from a room to the right, despite the local team having lost at home to Southampton earlier, a result which combined with events elsewhere meant they had to settle for the play-offs rather than gaining automatic promotion to the Premier League. I headed down a long and impressive corridor past this room. A friendly lady's head popped out from what was the entry to behind the bar, and I was directed back to the main entrance where I should have turned first left.

The corridor, with its tiling, etched windows, and rich mahogany is impressive enough, but I walked into the vault which was a stunning room with many remarkable features. An amazing ceramic bar counter with an elaborate mahogany bar back lay at the end of the room, which also featured an attractive mosaic floor. In the middle of the room there was a fireplace with a faience surround, with a moulded plasterwork ceiling above. The pub had been developed in Edwardian times, with the interior pretty much untouched since 1902 when it was rebuilt for its owner, a Mr Edward Wilson by architect W.Mason Coggill fom nearby Stourton, with much of the work on the pub done by the local companies Burmantofts and J. Claughton. 

Whilst the vault is the undoubted highlight of this remarkable pub, there are further delights to be found elsewhere; the small former smoke room which is served from a small hatch at the back of the bar features some attractive banquette seating and a mahogany fireplace and fittings, whilst on the wall either side of a dartboard a number of photos recall some of the great former players from the glory days of Hunslet Rugby League Club such as Brian Gabbitas, Geoff Gunney, and from more recent times, James Lowes.

Back on the bar there were a few hand pumps with two each displaying clips for both Leeds Pale and Kirkstall Three Swords. For a time the Garden Gate had been run by Leeds Brewery, but I decided to go for the Three Swords. I got chatting to Lauren the licensee who, with her son, is leasing the pub - now a free house - from the owners. She told me they get plenty of visitors from CAMRA, Pub Heritage groups, as well as the curious coming along to take a look at this gem in its very unassuming location. Things are going well, she said; they are starting to do food, and as we spoke she was peeling spuds in readiness for tomorrow's Sunday lunch. The beer was a bit disappointing, to be honest, tired and an NBBS 2 rating I felt, no doubt because little is sold to what seems on my visit at any rate to be a predominantly lager-drinking crowd, but if the number of visitors increase demand for cask may do so likewise. But that's not really the point with a place like the Garden Gate. The fact that it is open, has a band of regulars, and is friendly and welcoming to anyone who ventures to this unassuming corner of South Leeds is far more important. I wish Lauren all the best in making a success of a this significant part of Leeds' dwindling stock of historical pubs, and would highly recommend that if you get chance you take a trip there.

And then it was then off in an Uber with Mohammed (not the same one) who moaned most of the way about the inconsistencies of Leeds United which led to them missing out on automatic promotion as he drove me back towards the city centre to the Tetley, the newly-opened and refurbished bar based in the former offices of Tetley's Brewery who for many years had provided the beers for the Garden Gate, and which I wrote about fairly recently.

It was a couple of years since I'd visited the site. Since 2013 it had been an art gallery which was rent-free for 10 years, but when that arrangement ended and agreement couldn't be reached with the site landlords about an appropriate level of rent, they moved out. And so into the breach stepped Kirkstall Brewery, who said they planned to re-open the building as a showcase of Leeds beer. After being closed for refurbishment for several weeks, it opened at the end of April, and has been attracting both praise and visitors since.

The Tetley stands as a looming presence at the end of a large piazza-like open space. The original gates with their arch have been retained, with large signage atop the four-storey building reminding you that this was The Home of Tetley's Established 1822. The entrance is to the left of the building, in front of which is an outside seating area with a canopy running the length of the low building at the side of the former office block. I walked in, and off to the right I found the bar, with several people lining up in a queue as is often the case these days (why?) as they waited to be served. When my turn came I felt it was only appropriate, for old time's sake, to order a pint of Tetley Bitter even though as we all know it isn't brewed anywhere near Leeds these days. It was one of six hand pumps on the bar, with three from Kirkstall, along with two from Leeds Brewery who are owned by Kirkstall, plus several beers on keg. I was though a little surprised at the range in that the pre-opening blurb had promised "a showcase of Leeds' beers", but then I spotted a large glass-fronted fridge advertising Leeds beers, so I suppose that gets round it!

I went to find somewhere to sit. An area with wood-panelled walls and comfy seating and low tables to the right of the entrance was fully occupied, so I wandered into what seemed to be more of a dining area, although plenty of the occupants just seemed to be having a drink. I found an empty table at the back of the room and had a sip of my beer. Pleasant though it was (NBSS 3) - and let's face it, it is still a popular brand in many places - it is unlikely it will ever match the quality of the beer once brewed on this site. A second pint I had, of Dissolution IPA was much more to my liking (NBSS 3.5). I looked around the room and there was a mixed crowd of different ages taking in the atmosphere, no doubt many like myself on their first visit here, curious to see what Kirkstall had done with the building.

There is no doubt they have created a very impressive location, with plenty of artefacts, breweriana, and photographs on display. They have taken advantage of some high walls in order to feature some large pieces, whilst a white background and sympathetic lighting enhances their appearance, and so this former art gallery is now in effect an exhibition featuring the history of pubs and breweries. Given the space here the usual heritage look that Kirkstall give their pubs has taken the opportunity to run riot.

It's early days of course, and given the publicity the Tetley has been given it is not surprising it has been busy since it opened. And I am sure it will continue that way. There are plenty of flats and apartments in this part of Leeds from which to draw custom, although whether it will develop a group of regulars or draw in more casual visitors, time will tell, although I suspect the latter. But go and have a look for yourself and see what you think. It certainly is impressive, although I felt lacking a bit of character, with more of the clinical feel of a gallery than the warmth of a pub. But well done to Kirkstall for taking on this significant part of Leeds' brewing history and I wish all concerned well for the future.

I left the Tetley and decided to call in the nearby Adelphi, a another rare example of a classic historical Leeds pub, which I have written about previously. This was at one time given its location the de facto tap for Tetleys brewery. Today it is a free house selling a number of beers from different breweries, but that regular combination of Kirkstall Three Swords and Leeds Pale which I'd seen earlier today was available here too. Service at the main bar was slow, with a serious lack of bar staff not helping. I decided to chance my luck by going to the room on the left by the entrance, and when I eventually did get served I ordered a pint of the Three Swords, which was rather better than the one earlier (NBSS 3). I struck up conversation with one of the many Leeds United fans who were helping the pub keep busy, and as we discussed our teams' respective seasons and football in general it was a reminder of what makes pubs such an important part of our culture; that ability to bring complete strangers together. Which is why it is vital that places like here, and the Garden Gate, and historic buildings like the Tetley remain open and alive....

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