A Dorking Wander....

A visit to a new area for me, taking in some fine beer, a walk through some beautiful countryside, and a new football ground. Read on for details....

The train rattled through the last throes of the South London sprawl, and shortly afterwards, we were passing through the increasingly attractive Surrey countryside. A stop at Leatherhead, and then we alighted at the attractive Box Hill and Westhumble station, complete with traditional red phone box. Apparently it was often seen in the introduction to many of Michael Portillo's train tours, prompting speculation that the dandy traveller may have actually lived around these parts. Back to today, and it seemed many of those who had got off the train with us had come to walk up Box Hill, the 224-metre (735ft) North Downs summit which overlooks the town of Dorking. It lies within the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, with part of the hill owned and managed by the National Trust. Situated less than 20 miles from London, it attracts around 850,000 visitors a year. However, on this occasion my friend Richard and I were heading in the opposite direction, up to the area of Norbury Park, situated on the other side of the Mole Valley. 

We crossed the bridge over the railway, and headed up a narrow country lane through the woods into the hills. Eventually we turned off on to a track and shortly afterwards we were awarded with some good views across the valley towards Box Hill. Skirting the stately home hidden away behind high security fences, we passed a former sawmill and soon came to a clearing in the woods. It was a meeting point for several paths and tracks, and in the middle was a Land Rover from which coffee, tea, and various tasty treats were available. Several walkers were sat beside the crackle and smoke of a firepit like moths around a light. We were at Wild Coffee, which seemed to have a loyal local following judging by the lengthy queues of walkers and several dogs, which led to a few yaps and snarls as they waited. At one point a horse even joined the assembly, but had to be restrained when it spotted the cakes on offer were within striking range. The guy dispensing the drinks kept up a steady stream of good-natured banter, supported by two ladies, to whom Richard each presented a homemade fat rascal as one of the recipients had recently celebrated a birthday. We grabbed a welcome cup of tea here, before resuming our walk. We eventually began to drop downwards, and emerged in the attractive village of Westhumble, where after cutting through a narrow pathway, we followed a track through the Denbies vineyard, and shortly afterwards emerged in a yard beside the Surrey Hills Brewery, having had a most enjoyable walk through the rolling chalk hills of the North Downs.

The Surrey Hills Brewery started out in 2005 in the village of Shere near Guildford in 2005, but then moved to Dorking in 2011, where it is now based at the back of the winery on the Denbies estate, although there is no connection between the two businesses. Most of the beer produced is sold within 15 miles of the brewery, and so it is very much a local brewery for local people, although they hit the national headlines when their flagship 4.2% ale, Shere Drop, won CAMRA's Champion Beer of Britain Award in 2019. I had come across one of their beers, Greensand IPA in, of all places, the Fat Cat in Sheffield last year, but as the brewery don't normally use distributors how it got there is something of a mystery! 

There were a few plastic chairs beside a stack of pallets which Richard explained were the extent of the facilities as whilst you went into the brewery to get your beer, there was no taproom in there. So fortunately it was not too cold for early March to sit out. We went in to get a beer, and from a little room to the left, we placed our orders with the brewery guy. I went for the 3.8% Ranmore, a delicious and refreshing pale session beer which I rated NBSS 4. What a great start to the day's beers. We had a reminder as to the real reason why we were in this corner of Surrey when we were gradually joined by a few Halifax Town fans who had ventured out here for a pre-match pint. We were the only ones who lingered for any length of time though, save for a curious robin that perched on one of the nearby chairs; there was however a steady stream of visitors who called in to buy beer to take home. I tried another two of the beers available; a pint of Shere Drop which was very enjoyable, and a 4.6% golden ale, Gilt Complex, which was likewise most agreeable, both of which I rated as a NBSS 3.5. It had been very pleasant way to relax after our walk.

The Surrey Hills Brewery

We resumed our journey to Dorking, heading up a wide path through the sweeping vines as we climbed the hill. We eventually turned off on to a path through some woodland, emerging after a few minutes into some housing as we arrived at the edge of the town. Dorking is a market town of about 17,000 people around 21 miles from London which with its transport connections is popular with commuters, and with its location in the Surrey Hills and rich history and attractive buildings, is also popular with tourists.

We walked down the hill, crossed the road at a roundabout, and arrived in the town centre. On an attractive narrow street we came to our final pre-match destination, Cobbetts, a beer and bottle shop cum micropub (opening picture), which Richard had frequently mentioned when he'd returned up north. As we walked in it was busy, and several familiar faces from Halifax were already present, prompting cheers as more of our number arrived. The bar was at the back of the room, and I ordered a pint of cask Cloudwater, the name of which, for some inexplicable reason, I never made a note of. This mystery pint was a hazy pale, in great condition, and I rated it as a 4 on the NBSS scale, which was followed by a pint of Arise from Burning Sky on keg, which was very good as usual

It was time for the football, and it was only a few minutes walk to Meadowbank, the small but tidy home of Dorking Wanderers, which was situated behind a car park just out of the town centre, with Box Hill keeping watch in the distance. The club are playing their first ever season in the National League, having only started out in 1999 playing park football, before starting their climb up the pyramid where they gained several promotions. Despite a few good performances over the course of the season, they were hovering just out of the relegation zone when this match took place. The game finished 0-0, as Town continued to find goals a rare commodity as they have done all season, this time being denied any opportunities due to a man of the match performance from Dan Lincoln, the Dorking goalkeeper. 

Dorking Wanderers v Halifax Town

We trooped back up the narrow streets to Cobbetts, where already there was already quite a post-match throng. There was none of the mystery Cloudwater cask left, all details of its existence having been scrubbed from the board, so I went for another half of the Burning Sky. We headed into a tiny room off to the left with the bar on your right, where Town and Dorking fans mingled and chatted good-naturedly. It seemed many of them were regulars at Cobbetts anyway. Back to the bar, where I ordered a half of Greensand IPA on cask which was the only beer on that I'd not tried when we'd been at Surrey Hills earlier in the day. The guy behind the bar, Steve, who was working with Tim, the owner, then promptly disappeared, returning a minute or two later with my beer from the cellar, which was on good form (NBSS 3.5). We rounded off proceedings here with another half, and this time I went for a half of the 8% version of Verdant's Putty, which was sublime. I have to say I thought Cobbetts was absolutely wonderful, and is up there as one of the best micros I have ever visited. Friendly, welcoming, and with some great beer, it is well worth a trip to Dorking in its own right.

Cobbetts, Dorking: an absolute cracker

There are two other pubs in Dorking in the 2023 Good Beer Guide, and the completist in me was keen to try them both, although Richard sensibly pointed out that we needed to factor in a 20 minute walk to the station and so we couldn't hang around for too long in either. Fortunately, it wasn't far to one of them; in fact the Old House was only the other side of a pathway from Cobbetts! An attractive old building apparently dating from the 15th century, it was pretty busy when we walked in, the music and general liveliness a stark contrast to the more relaxing atmosphere next door. We got served, I went for a half of Original Pale Ale, a 3.7% light ale from Pilgrim Brewery, based in Reigate, who started out in 1982 making them the oldest microbrewery in Surrey. It was ok, a little on the thin side (NBSS 3), but to be fair, it probably suffered in the wake of the Putty I had just had at Cobbetts....

The Old House, Dorking

We left the Old House, and turned up the pathway between the two pubs, and after passing several quiet houses with just the odd chink of light suggesting there was life within, we emerged on to a main road with our final pub of the evening a few yards away on the other side of the road. This was the Cricketers, one of three pubs with a similar name in the Dorking area, this being the one on South Street, and which is a large Fullers establishment. We walked in to a quiet pub, with a few couples and small groups dotted around, with the odd solitary guy clutching a pint. The two girls serving were friendly, and I ordered a half of Hophead from Dark Star which was a pleasant enough beer to finish the day with (NBSS 3).

The Cricketers, Dorking

We finished our drinks, and then walked the 20 minutes or so to Dorking Station, one of three that serve the town. We passed through the town centre and then out at the other side, arriving there with a few minutes to spare before catching our train back to Worcester Park. It had been an excellent day out in a part of the world I had not previously visited. We'd had a good walk, some great beer, excellent company, and the fact the football was a bit of a disappointment hadn't taken the edge off a top day. And many thanks to my old friend Richard for being an excellent host! 

I was heading back up north the following day, from where a couple of days later I was setting off on my travels once again....

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