A Few Beers In Skipton....

I've just paid a visit to the attractive market town of Skipton, often referred to as the Gateway to the Dales, where there had been a few changes on the local beer scene since I had last visited. Here's what I found this time....

As is often the case these days, I was later setting off than I'd intended and when I arrived at Halifax railway station at about 2pm I did wonder about changing my plans from going to Skipton and going somewhere a bit nearer to home, but as I deliberated I bumped in to a guy I know from the Grayston Unity who said it sounded like a good idea. And so in the end Skipton it was. I caught the train to Bradford Interchange and walked along the pedestrianised streets towards Forster Square, from where my next train departed. But I had time for a quick pint first, so I popped into the Exchange where I enjoyed a pint of Ticket to Ride from the Escape Brewery who are based in Westhoughton. Despite the fact they have been around since 2019 this was the first time I could recall having a beer from them. And very nice it was too, a clean and refreshing 4.3% pale brewed with Mosaic and Citra (NBSS 3.5). An excellent start to the day and I hadn't even reached my destination!

It takes about 40 minutes to get to Skipton on the train from Forster Square station, and as we cruised along the Aire Valley on a pleasant and relatively mild afternoon I watched England chase down the target set by Sri Lanka in the 2nd One Day International in Colombo, whilst simultaneously receiving updates on Whatsapp regarding Halifax Town's progress against Eastleigh at the Silverlake Stadium. It didn't seem long before we were pulling into Skipton, and shortly afterwards I was heading along the road into the town centre passing a couple of supermarkets, the odd hotel and restaurant, an old mill, and some cottages. The road crossed over the canal and then, instead of turning left just over the bridge and heading to the Boat House by the marina as I have done on the last few visits, I carried straight on towards a new pub to me, a new entry in the 2026 Good Beer Guide which had taken the Boat House's erstwhile slot.

Straight on along Swadland Street I came to the Cock & Bottle, with its striking signage and attractive white exterior. Inside the place was busy, with all the tables taken as far as I could tell. I got served quite quickly though, going for a pint of Theakstons Best Bitter which I hadn't tried for a while. There was also another handpump dispensing White Rat. I stood at the bar for a few minutes and then I spotted a table being freed up, so I made my way over to it like a ninja before anyone else had the same idea. As I sat down, several plates were being delivered to the table next to me, big plates piled high which looked very nice. More plates were being ferried out from a clearly busy kitchen and a number of young waitresses were scurrying about with order pads, pens tucked behind their ears, randomly checking a table every now and again to make sure everything was OK with their order. There was no escape from the fact that this was a predominantly a foodie pub, although there were plenty of people just having a drink like me. The beer though was OK, just scraping a 3 on the NBSS scale, a bit bland and lacking any distinct character. Which just about summed up the Cock & Bottle....

From there it was a short walk to the next pub on my list, which was one I had been to several times before. And what a cracker it is too! For once as well I was able to get some decent, unblocked shots of the Beer Engine (opening image) as usually there have been crowds of folk walking past or sat outside blocking the view. And it is only a small place anyway, although what was Skipton's first micropub when it first opened in 2014 underwent an expansion following acquisition by new owners in 2021 when it took over the premises next door. A couple of banners on the outside wall advised that this was Yorkshire Pub of the Year in 2024 and is the current Keighley & Craven Pub of the Year, a position it has held for the past 3 years. It has also been in the Good Beer Guide for 11 consecutive years.

Having concluded my photoshoot, l headed to the entrance, just being pipped to the door by a group of 4 blokes whose general demeanour and body language suggested they were well into a tour of the town's pubs. I walked in to a very busy room with all tables taken and people stood, and a few around the bar. I got served pretty quickly though, which was testament to the efficient service from the hard-working couple behind the bar. It turned out there was a private booking in the room beyond the bar with us walk-ups confined to the room we were in. But it made for a great atmosphere which was the complete opposite of the chain bar blandness where I'd been before.

I found a little spot to base myself at the end of the bar from where I was able to see how efficiently they run the bar. The casks are situated in a refrigerated glass cabinet behind the bar, a reminder that this is still essentially a micropub. And what about the beer? Well I had a pint of Mosaic from Arbor that was in excellent condition and probably the best pint I have had on my trips so far this year (NBSS 4) and then because I was enjoying the friendly atmosphere so much I followed up with a half of Porter from Two by Two which was dark, rich, and full of flavour (NBSS 3.5). There were also some interesting beers on keg, and with additional beer in cans in a fridge next to the bar, in terms of beer variety it is the major player on the local real ale scene. If you only have time to visit one place in Skipton, the Beer Engine is that place. And unlike many micro pubs up and down the country, it opens every day of the week from noon till 10pm.

The next place I visited was only a short walk away, and like the Beer Engine situated on one of the narrow streets close to the canal basin. I had been to the Narrow Boat many times over the years, but this would be my first visit since it had been taken over by Kirkstall Brewery. Previously it had part of the now-diminishing Market Town Taverns group but was sold off by then owners, Isle of Man-based Heron & Brearley, who also own Okells brewery on the island. Inside it appeared very much as I remembered although the bar had moved from last time I'd been in, but there was still plenty of dark wood and an upstairs gallery. I ordered a pint of Kirkstall Three Swords which flattered to deceive, the initial decent head soon disappearing into the ether. It was a bit thin, probably a tad on the green side, and ultimately disappointing (NBSS 3). The pub was fairly busy and there was a decent atmosphere, but from a beer point of view it was a slightly disappointing return here.

It wasn't far to the next pub, but it was a little further away, at the bottom of the High Street, where the usual Saturday market had closed, but the traffic was still flowing and a number of people were walking out in the chill air of the early evening. I was going to the Woolly Sheep, an 18th century former coaching inn which is run by Taylors from down the road in Keighley. I had not enjoyed my last visit here when it was very busy and I had been forced to sit in an area surrounded by a couple of fratching families with screaming kids, a large rug-like Labrador with bowel issues, and uncleared glasses and plates with half-eaten food congealing in the warmth of a sunny afternoon. So I walked in with low expectations. It was busy but there was quite a convivial atmosphere in what is a smart pub which has 12 en-suite bedrooms and a restaurant which serves food all day. On the bar there 7 handpumps dedicated to Taylors beers, and from the options there I went for a pint of Boltmaker, which was not ridiculously priced considering this is a hotel in a tourist area. I went off in search of somewhere to sit, but after a couple of searches which revealed nothing I ended up back near the bar. An old guy (who turned out to be the same age as me!) who was sat on his own and had seen me walking past invited me to share his table, so I sat down. He was from Bradford but now lived in Skipton and we had a pleasant chat as we talked about football and he gave me his take on the local pubs. The beer was also rather good, with plenty of flavour and in very good condition (NBSS 3.5). And so when I left the Woolly Sheep about half an hour later I was a lot more positive about the place than before I walked in!

All the pubs I had visited so far were in the 2026 Good Beer Guide and there was a 5th one too, one that I had never been to before. That was a little further away on Court Lane, but as I approached the Yorkshireman following a walk of around 5 minutes, alarm bells rang as there were no lights on! It was closed, and pressing my nose to the window revealed no clues as to why it was shut. Even allowing for some of the most eccentric hours followed by some micropubs you would expect them to be open at 6.30 on a Saturday evening! I headed into the nearest pub which was the local branch of Spoons, grabbed a quick half and a check on Google said they were opening at the Yorkshireman after a New Year break on the 23rd January, which was the previous day, with its hours being restricted to weekends anyway, at least in the winter months. So still none the wiser but hopefully all is well there and I will be able to call in on a future visit to Skipton. The Spoons meanwhile is the Devonshire, a conversion of a former townhouse that was built in 1702 and was the former home of the Duke of Devonshire. Here I sampled a half of Bowland Hen Harrier which was slightly better than the usual Spoons standard (NBSS 3) and to be fair whilst it was busy it was pleasant enough here during my admittedly short stay.

The Yorkshireman and the Devonshire - spot the open pub.

I had decided to get some fish and chips before I left Skipton and looking at train times I reckoned I had enough time to call in one more place. The guy I'd been talking to at the Woolly Sheep had mentioned a bar called the Speakeasy where they sold LAMB ales, not a brewery I have seen around for a while, so that had piqued my interest. The bar was on Swadford Street on the way back to the station, and was quite busy when I walked in, and continued to get busier as I drank my beer. Three handpumps were in operation, all selling LAMB beers, and from the options available I went for the 3.9% Pale, which was in great condition and after an initial burst of citrus notes there was a pleasant dry bitter finish (NBSS 3.5). The brewery is based around the back of the Queens Arms in Litton, set in beautiful countryside in Littondale, although it is separately owned. I had assumed the brewery name, which is always in capitals, was a nod to the rural surroundings in which the brewery is situated, but apparently it is an acronym of Litton Ales Mild and Bitter! I liked the Speakeasy, the beer was good, it was relaxed and comfortable, and there was a nice cool soundtrack playing in the background.

And, save for a dine in the fish and chip restaurant near the bridge over the canal, that concluded my latest visit to Skipton. I'd had a most enjoyable few hours here, and to be honest there were plenty of other places I could have visited too, ranging from traditional town pubs to micropubs, and probably to get a full appreciation of the town's pubs a stop over is needed. An idea for next time, maybe....

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