A Saunter Around Shrewsbury....

Another piece from the Midlands, this time featuring Shrewsbury where I stayed for a couple of nights the other week. I had been here a few times before, but with it having been a few years ago, I was curious as to what the pub scene was like these days....

Shrewsbury is one of my favourite towns in England. Not only does it have some cracking pubs, it has an incredible history and is also home to some stunning buildings, whilst its setting in and around a loop of the River Severn gives it, like Durham and its similar relationship with the River Wear, something of the feel of an island, a place apart that moves along in its own individual, time-honoured way. The local poet A.E. Houseman wrote of the town in his famous poem A Shropshire Lad:

"High the vanes of Shrewsbury gleam,
Islanded in Severn stream,
The bridges from the steepled crest,
Cross the water east to west"  

Shrewsbury certainly has a rich history, with Anglo-Saxon roots, whilst the Romans had a settlement close by Watling Street, the road they built linking London with North Wales, now affectionately known as the A5. The town lies only 9 miles from the Welsh border, and it is sometimes claimed that Pengwern, the sometime capital of the kingdom of Powys was actually Shrewsbury, the history of the Marches straddling both sides of the border. Shrewsbury Castle was built by Roger de Montgomery, who became the first Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1074, having been gifted the town by William the Conqueror, and who subsequently founded Shrewsbury Abbey in 1083 as a Benedictine monastery. The town had its misfortunes over the years, subsequently experiencing the Black Death, being besieged, and its own Great Fire. In 1403 the Battle of Shrewsbury took place, in which Henry IV defeated Henry Percy aka Harry Hotspur in the now-suburb of Battlefield. And in 1485, Henry Tudor stayed in the town in the now Henry Tudor House - nowadays home to a restaurant - before doing battle in the Battle of Bosworth Field. By that time the Council of Wales and the Marches had been established, sitting in both the town and Ludlow again underlining the links between this part of England and Wales. And if you were wondering, the town was a Royalist stronghold in the Civil War.

Economically, Shrewsbury prospered as a market town in the Middle Ages, its location on the River Severn and Watling Street giving it many advantages and it became important in the trading of wool from Welsh sheep.. During this period many of the town's finest buildings were constructed, many still remaining to this day. The town subsequently became an important stopping off point for stagecoaches travelling between London and Holyhead, which led to the development of many coaching inns, some of which remain to this day. The Shrewsbury Canal was opened up in 1797 and in 1835 was linked to the Shropshire Canal and thus the rest of the canal network, further helping the town's growth. It became an important link on the rail network due to its location with links to towns in the North West, Midlands, Wales, and beyond. These good connections also led to the town becoming a major distribution hub and retail centre for the region in more recent times. Today various events take place in the town, with both the folk festival and flower festival drawing visitors from all over the country each year. And as you walk around Shrewsbury you can't fail to notice regular references to Charles Darwin, the biologist and evolutionary theorist, who was one of the 19th century's most prominent thinkers and influences. Other famous people with Shrewsbury connections include Robert Clive aka Clive of India, who was both the town's MP and mayor for a time, Ian Hunter, musician, and former member of Mott the Hoople, former England goalkeeper, Joe Hart, golfer Sandy Lyle, gardener Percy Thrower, and DJ and broadcaster, John Peel, who was educated at Shrewsbury School.

The River Severn at Shrewsbury

The town remained largely untroubled by German bombers in the Second World War and has generally survived questionable planning applications which has left a largely undisturbed medieval street layout with around 660 listed buildings. In the area close to the churches of St Alkmund's and St Julian's with its narrow streets and passages, quirky black and white buildings face off close to the famous Bear Steps, with the schoolboy snigger-inducing Grope Lane taking you back down to the lower part of town. There are several pubs in this area, generally amongst the oldest in town, with my favourite and one of the best in Shrewsbury being the Three Fishes, a Good Beer Guide fixture situated in the shadow of the churches, on Fish Street, a quaint cobbled street which was home to the town's fish market until Victorian times. The pub dates from the 15th Century and its single room is low-beamed, comfortable, and welcoming. I called in one lunchtime during my stay but despite the early hour it had a number of visitors here no doubt appreciating this calm haven where there are no TV screens and conversation is the order of the day. The pub offers 5 beers on hand pump, and my pint of Hobsons Best Bitter was bittersweet, malty, and well-balanced, and was one of the best beers I had during the course of my visit (NBSS 3.5). I read that in 1994 the then landlord imposed a smoking ban, which was of course years before the official ban. Initially trade dropped off significantly but within a few months it had built back up again, and today there is still no outdoor area for smoking or drinking. An essential pub to visit when in Shrewsbury.

The Three Fishes

A few minutes walk away is another historical pub, The Loggerheads, situated next to St Alkmund's Church on Church Street, supposedly the shortest street in Shrewsbury. The pub dates from of the 18th century, and was originally known as the Greyhound, and later the Shrewsbury Arms. However due to the pub sign depicting the town's heraldic coat of arms which featured three leopard heads, it was known locally as 'Loggerheads', and eventually it became the pub's official name. There are two entrances to the front of the pub which lead in to a Grade ll-listed interior which still retains four separate small rooms, accessed off an L-shaped corridor. Several traditional features are to be found within, such as bench seating and old bell pushes, and an ancient slate shove ha'penny board in a room with a sign which says Gents Only until 1975, a throwback to another time. I sat in a quiet room which had several occupants, including a couple who I'd seen in the Three Fishes, whose body language and subdued whispers hinted at a possible assignation. Amongst the traditional fixtures and fittings a solitary modest sized TV was discreetly showing the racing from Cheltenham. The Loggerheads is a former Banks's pub, the Wolverhampton brewery now part of the collateral fall-out from the Carlsberg-Marstons  debacle, and beer is from the Marstons (or is it Carlsberg?) list. I ordered a half of Banks Amber, nee Bitter, which was thin and lacking in much taste and character, and at best average (NBSS 2.5). Which is a real shame, as the Loggerheads is an atmospheric and special pub which is one you need to visit. Hopefully, the beer will be better next time.

The Loggerheads

Not far away, a turn to the right off Church Street and along the intriguingly-named Dogpole is Cromwell's Tap House. I actually called in on a different day during my stay, a quiet Monday night when such as the afore-mentioned Three Fishes and Admiral Benbow were not open. This was a former house which only became a pub in 1940, and considering a fairly standard interior surprisingly has a Grade ll-listed bar frontage. It was a new place to me, and it had not been in the beer guide on my previous visits to Shrewsbury. I walked in to a relatively dimly-lit interior. There were various nooks and crannies in the single room, which was otherwise empty save for one which I couldn't see occupied by a group of bar workers from elsewhere in the town bemoaning their lot in increasingly loud and sweary voices. I'd been served a half of Goff's White Knight, the pick of a disappointing selection on the three hand pumps, which was pleasant enough without being remarkable (NBSS 3). Maybe I caught the place on a off day, but the poor soundtrack and general lack of warmth here were at odds with the majority of places I called in on my trip.

Cromwell's Tap House

Head down to the end of Dogpole, turn left down the sloping Wyle Cop passing the afore-mentioned Henry Tudor House and just above the long-established Tanners Wine Merchants is one of Shrewsbury's finest pubs, and one of its most historic that is allegedly haunted. The Nag's Head is a Grade ll-listed timber-framed building with upper-storey jettying and the remains of a 14th century hall in the large beer garden around the back. It certainly looked welcoming, with a warm orange glow emanating from its large window, through which I could see several customers enjoying an early evening drink. I didn't think I had been here before, but when I walked into this small two-roomer I realised I had, recognising the small bar with serveries in both the front and the smaller back rooms. There was a relaxed air about the place with small groups engaged in quiet conversation, a guy doing a crossword, whilst an 80's soundtrack was playing on the jukebox, accompanied by a couple of enthusiastic out of view punters singing along in the back room. The beer choice was rather disappointing though, with the ubiquitous Landlord one of the beers on the three hand pumps on the bar. I opted for a half of Titanic Plum Porter, another beer that is widely available these days, and to be fair this plum-flavoured dark beer was on pretty good form (NBSS 3). I liked the pub though and it is well-worth a visit.

The Nag's Head

I carried on down Wyle Cop and then turned right down a side street which took me to a park area and then to a footbridge over the dark waters of the River Severn. I crossed over and emerged on to a suburban street with several shops, takeaways, and a couple of pubs. I turned left and shortly afterwards found the pub I was looking for. This was the Cross Foxes, a former Mitchells & Butlers house which is now free of tie, a pub I had definitely never been in before. I walked in, and entered into a fairly busy pub for a Monday evening with a cluster or two of locals around the bar which went down most of the side of the room, behind which a friendly lady was dispensing drinks and humour in good measure to the assembled crowd. The sea of locals parted without hesitation to allow me to get served, and with XXX from the Three Tuns Brewery on one of the 4 hand pumps, not a beer I get to see often, it was an easy choice to go for. I retreated to a table in the corner to enjoy my drink and watch over proceedings. My beer was excellent, a 4.3% premium pale ale, well-balanced, refreshing, and in tip-top condition, and was the best beer I had during my stay in Shropshire (NBSS 4). The Three Tuns brewery is well-established, housed in a traditional tower brewery in the middle of the small town of Bishop's Castle in the borderlands a few miles away, and has its own pub alongside which I have visited a couple of times. Back to the Cross Foxes, it seemed everyone knew everybody else, but they were all very friendly, and a couple engaged me in conversation, including a Scottish guy with his arm in a sling who'd moved to the town a few years ago. There was to be a darts match later in the evening, and so from a couple of guys having a bit of practice there was the frequent metronomic sound of dart hitting board as I enjoyed my pint. I was tempted to get another half of the same, but in the end I settled for a half of Draught Bass, another fixture on the bar here along with HPA and Butty Bach from Wye Valley. It was a good half, but not as good as the XXX (NBSS 3). I really enjoyed my visit here, great pub, great beer, and worth venturing out of the town centre for. 

I left the warmth of the pub and headed back over the bridge and in to the town centre for some food at my new favourite burger chain, The Beefy Boys, where I was not left disappointed. After eating I made my way through the quiet streets in the direction of my hotel. I was staying at the Premier Inn across the road from the River Severn where I had stayed a couple of times before. It was handy for both the railway and local bus stations, and there were a couple of Good Beer Guide-listed pubs nearby.

One of these was one of the two Wetherspoons in Shrewsbury. The Shrewsbury Hotel is a historic former coaching inn across the road from the river. It is one of the best Wetherspoons around, and I have actually stayed here as it is also a hotel, the first one the group opened. It had been a hotel before in its previous life when it had been called the Britannia for many years, when it was run by the former Wem Brewery who became part of the long-gone regional brewing giants Greenall Whitley. It has a large bar with a comfortable area with a library, open fire, and nooks and crannies, whilst there is also a more open area which is less lavishly-appointed. The pub was quite busy as the annual beer festival was in full flow with several guest beers available at a bargain £1.99 a pint. I think someone had made an error on the till though: I ordered a half of Grand Union from the Hook Norton brewery which only cost me 90p! It wasn't that bad either, a 4.3% seasonal IPA from the Oxfordshire-based brewers (NBSS 3).

The Shrewsbury Hotel

Along the road and closer to the Premier Inn is the pub that I have probably been in more often than any other in my visits to Shrewsbury. The Salopian is close to a large footbridge that crosses over the River Severn, and is a busy pub with 5 hand pumps on the bar and several TV screens on the walls. In many ways it is like a sports bar with real ale, but the staff here are friendly and it is welcoming to all, be it the old guy seeking a quiet afternoon pint, the just-finished work crowd, or groups on a night out. And of course when a big match is on the crowds come: it was fairly busy one night when Newcastle won at West Ham, but it was very busy the following night when Liverpool were knocked out of the Champions League by Paris St Germain. The beer was generally pretty good on each of my visits, with Salopian Oracle and Butty Bach from Wye Valley generally scoring a 3 on the NBSS scale. 

I enjoyed going back to Shrewsbury once again. I was disappointed that I couldn't get to visit Tap & Can, a micropub close to the station as it doesn't open during the early part of the week when I was there, but with that and a couple of other pubs a little further out of town, plus all that history, those stunning buildings, and the general ambience of the town, there is plenty to tempt me back here in the not-to-distant future....

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