A first visit to Harrogate for a number of years, and on this showing it won't be long before I come back. I found some great beers and new bars which with a number of long-standing favourites all add up to what is a thriving beer scene in this large North Yorkshire town....
It was a grey, miserable day as I set off on my trip to Harrogate, drizzling in and amongst and not really a day to enjoy the rich autumn colours which are continuing to show but in ever decreasing numbers. And by the time I arrived in the busy North Yorkshire town that drizzle had become persistent to say the least. But fortunately, it wasn't far to travel to the first place I had earmarked to call on my visit here.
The Harrogate Tap is actually situated within the station buildings, and from a former empty and neglected space, a comfortable and stylish bar has been created featuring much dark wood, a tiled floor, and traditional furniture and fittings. It is run by the Pivovar Group, who also run the Taps at Sheffield and York stations, as well as Pivni in York and Tapped in Leeds, plus a joint pub venture with Thornbridge which includes the Market Cat in York and the Banker's Cat in Leeds, and that is in addition to being a large drinks wholesaler. I have to say the Harrogate Tap is my favourite of their station taps, it has always had a laid-back ambience, friendly staff, and a decent selection of well-kept beer whenever I've called in. And today was no exception. From a dozen beers on hand pump which, as well as one of their own Tapped brewery, came from breweries such as Redwillow, Bristol Beer Factory, Three Brothers, and Anarchy, I went for a pint of Platinum from Helmsley Brewery. This was a 3.8% refreshing pale beer with Citra and Eldorado hops brewed to commemorate 70 years of the North Yorkshire Moors National Park. And very good it was too, I reckon it was a 3.5 on he National Beer Scoring System scale which made for a strong start to the day's proceedings. There is also a craft beer offering, but on this occasion I didn't take much of a look. The place was quite busy across both of its rooms, but as on previous visits, it was all very civilised, the hum of conversation wafting around as drinks were sipped.
I got myself together and headed out into the increasingly heavy drizzle in search of the nearest place on my list that I hadn't previously visited. Just opposite the bus station, the Good Beer Guide app had said, so with that being just down the road, so it should be easy to find. Or so I thought. I walked past the bus station. Couldn't find the place. Put Google Maps on. It was back towards the train station. The drizzle was increasing in intensity. I walked back, then the blue dot (me) had moved past it. Where was the bugger? I just couldn't see it. The pub description had said you could also access from Beulah Street, so I found that. The blue dot and the red marker started to get closer on Google Maps. And closer. Closer. Here? Here!!!???
To say the Disappearing Chin has an understated appearance to the outside world is like putting it mildly. An undistinguished exterior with little to give away who or what it is, only a few chairs hinting at a possible cafe within. I opened the door, it was dimly lit inside. Plenty of plants, a large sofa, tables and chairs laid out as in a cafe. A few bar stools at the bar, which is situated in the middle of the long room effectively creating different areas. There were 3 hand pumps and a number of fonts offering keg beers. A few guys were sat at the bar but it was empty otherwise. I'd decided to balance my visit out with the odd half, so I ordered half of London Thunder, the delicious 4.2% porter brewed by Roosters just outside the town. When I came to pay I was asked for £4.50, and when my drink appeared after topping up I realised the lady behind the bar must have misheard me! Oh well, never mind, I'll have a half in the next place. I went to a table at the Beulah Street end of the room and plugged my phone in for a charge while I drank my beer. It was very good, rich and creamy, another NBSS 3.5. A couple of ladies came in for a post-shopping glass of wine came and sat at the nearby sofa. My phone reached 90% as I finished my pint, and it was time to go. Whilst it may have been because I was slightly irritated at the time it took to find the place, and whilst I certainly couldn't fault the beer and the soundtrack was pretty decent, I wasn't quite sure what to think about the place in the end.
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| Appearing at the Disappearing Chin.... Now whilst the next place also wasn't proclaiming itself in bright lights, the warm glow coming out of the window of a terrace and a couple vaping in the little yard out front on nearby Cheltenham Crescent hinted that something may lie within, and that was confirmed when I spotted a hanging sign above the door announcing that I had indeed arrived at the Little Ale House. I walked in, and liked the place from the off. Yes, it was busy, all of the tables were occupied, and there was a queue for the bar, but there was a lovely warm atmosphere to the place. The queue moved fairly quickly and I was soon at the bar, which is situated at the far end of the room where one of the friendly guys working the bar took my order. I ordered a pint (forgot to get a half) of Cool Citra, a 4.4% pale ale from Ainsty, who brew on a farm at Acaster Malbis, near York. This was another most enjoyable pint (NBSS 3), which I drank stood at the where a few other beer afficionados were gathered. My eye was drawn to the beer board on the wall opposite where they had their own Little Ale House beer on keg brewed by Two by Two, who as regular readers may have picked up on, are one of my favourite brewers. So once the Citra was finished, I ordered a pint of the 4.7% house bar. It was the familiar yellow-orange murk, packed with loads of juicy flavours. Delicious.  I got chatting to one of the guys behind the bar about Two by Two and beers in general. One of the beer afficionados recommended a bar to visit if I liked cask and keg that was near to the station. I liked the Little Ale House, it was the first micropub in Harrogate apparently, and as well as the main room which falls neatly into two halves, there is a pleasant looking yard out the back which is visible through the large window at the back of the bar which helps give the place a light and airy feel. There is a large temperature-controlled glass cabinet at the side of the bar area in which the beers and some other drinks are stored. All the time I was there was a steady stream of customers, a real mix of people, but the lads kept on top of things in a friendly and courteous manner. A great little bar and it should be an essential part of any visit to Harrogate.   As I walked out there was no car parked outside the front, so I decided to get across the road and get a quick photo of the place whilst the coast was clear. As I set off, a car turned up the road, and spotting me just about to cross, the driver kindly waved me across in front of him and waited. How considerate I thought, until I reached the other side of the road, when I turned around, and he was reversing his car...right smack in front of the Little Ale House! Which is why I can only offer you a fairly undistinguished photo dominated by a car.... So, 3 bars so far, 4 pints consumed, but from here on in I did get on to the halves. My next stopping point was a bar I had been in before and I hadn't actually planned to do it today, but when I came across Starling I decided to go in and take a look. The last time I had been here was when it was a relatively small and chilled out cafe bar with as much emphasis on the coffee as the beer, but it has now expanded into a neighbouring shop unit and has doubled in size at least, whilst retaining its tasteful good looks. It was busy, with a mix of shoppers, groups on a day out, and early evening-outers. On the bar were 6 hand pumps, along with several keg lines, all of which are displayed on a LED screen behind the bar. I went for a half of Pomona Island Factotum and grabbed a seat at the side of the bar, where I spent a few minutes catching up on the football scores on my phone. I liked the new Starling, perhaps less chilled out than last time I went but it had a nice friendly atmosphere.  It was a few minutes' walk to the next place, one I had planned to go in, and one I had been in several times before. It was busy in Bettys as I walked past on the way there, with plenty of tables full, their occupants no doubt enjoying their over-priced sandwiches, cakes, and pots of tea. Down the hill from there, facing Montpellier Gardens, adjoining an outlier of the Stray, the huge expanse of open grassland that gives Harrogate much of its ambience, is the famous Blues Cafe Bar. It was busy when I got there, as it often has been when I've been, but this time all the tables were occupied by people of a certain age, whilst a mature DJ played a succession of blues classics from years gone by. Every now and then, a couple of elderly ladies would get up from their seats, sprinkle salt on the wooden floor like real pros, and then proceed to jive, boogie, and who knows what with some slick and sleek moves that belied their rather frail looks. It was great stuff, and the atmosphere was one of people enjoying a thoroughly good time. What about the beer, you ask? Well from the 4 beers on hand pump, I ordered a half of Craven Blonde, which was a pleasant enough beer, just about worth a NBSS 3 rating. But it is more the general vibe that makes a visit here memorable; there is live music on every day of the week, and upstairs from the busy bar there is a Gin Bar and restaurant.  I only had time to visit one more place before catching the train, so I decided to call at a bar that had been recommended by the guys at the Little Ale House as it was near to the station. This was a modern bar and bottle shop called Husk Beer Emporium. Currently framed by scaffolding, I walked into a busy bar where it was standing room only. I worked my way through to the bar and from a choice of two cask ales I ordered a half of Radio Silence, a new beer from Verdant. This is a 4.2% pale featuring the Nectaron hop from New Zealand, there was some tropical fruit and pine on the flavour profile, but I didn't feel it was particularly well-balanced and was ultimately a tad disappointing (NBSS 2.5). I have found before that brewers who focus on producing outstanding craft ales (and Verdant make some absolute crackers) can't always repeat it when they try their hand at cask, which was a view shared by a friend of mine when we were chatting about this the following day. More interesting though was my second beer here and final half of the afternoon. From a total of 10 keg lines which included a decent selection including beers from Arbor, Burnt Mill, Verdant, and a Northern Monk/Deya collab, I spotted another collab between sour beer specialists Pastore and the team from here at Husk. This was a barrel-aged 6% blend of wild beer and cherries called Sanguineto, and the half I had was sensational, not overly sour as you might have expected but well-balanced, fruity, and refreshing. Pastore, who are based in the village of Waterbeach near Cambridge, best known for being the former home of ace blogger Retired Martin, are always worth checking out as they make some very interesting beers. And Husk is a bar that is well-worth calling in as it's only a couple of minutes from the station; it's got great beers, friendly staff, and a chilled, feelgood vibe.  And that was my afternoon in Harrogate. A flying visit but it had been great to discover that the bar scene here is thriving. And that is without visiting places like Major Tom's Social, the Old Bell, the Tap on Tower Street and various other establishments in this North Yorkshire town. Which, I suppose, is a good reason to go back again soon.... Follow me on twitter/X: @realalemusic |
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