Skip to main content

Back to the Lakes

Sat in the Sun Hotel, Coniston. And I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself. Today I walked up my first proper Lakeland fell for a few years. Pleased because I had sort of given up. OK, recent company had not been up for it, and I suppose I used it as an excuse for not doing anything too strenuous.  Along with my age, my weight, any excuse, you name it.

But today, as I drove to Langdale to 'look at the view', I saw those fantastic fells and the old desire took over. I needed to give it a go again and so it was that I parked up at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Upper Langdale
I decided to do Pike O'Blisco because I'd done it several times and with the weather at that point being showery I didn't want to try anything too 'ambitious'. Passing the farm at Stool End, with the slopes from the Oxendale valley looking ever steeper, I began to question my decision. Walking, huffing, and puffing up those steep slopes, I realised I had lost my marbles completely.

It was steep up to here....
But...I carried on. Finally the ground levelled out a bit and I remembered why the effort was worth it. The views, the hidden sights of ghylls and gullies you don't see from ground level, or the different angle on a familiar fell, are there to savour.

I carried on to where the path met the path up to Crinkle Crags, and headed left to the summit of Pike O'Blisco. OK, it was a bit of a scramble and a pull in parts, but I made it. The twin cairns were bathed in sunshine, but the views over to Lake Windermere were hazy. It was great though to look down into Langdale and realise how far I'd come.

The view from the top
Dropping down off the summit there were a number of scrambles that were a bit testing to say the least. I don't fit into those rocky gaps like I used to and I creak a bit as well! But, the route down is straightforward enough after these obstacles have been passed, eventually emerging on the road up to Little Langdale.

I headed down the road back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll, and after changing my footwear, I went for a pint in the bar. What a fantastic place, unchanged in the 30-odd years I've been calling in. Stone floors, big range, simple furnishings and a great choice of beer.

I ordered a pint of Yates Bitter, always a good choice, and sat out in the garden, with views of the fells dominating. As is usual with walkers, you get talking and sharing each others stories of the day's achievements.

First time I've blogged away from base, but I just wanted to share these thoughts. This is an area I've been coming to for more years than I care to remember. Walking some of the high fells - Scafell, Great Gable, Helvellyn, and the Langdales. And drinking in some of the country's finest pubs.

Coniston is where I usually stay. It is that reassuring feeling that a hundred miles from home there is a place where things continue at their own pace. Yes, they now have Wi-Fi and there are 4x4's in profusion. The tourists are playing on their phones all the time. But come to Coniston and much is still the same. OK, the B&B has had a makeover but is now an even better base.The same people still work the pubs, although they might have switched allegiance to another of the village's 4 pubs. The same private number plate is still parked outside the same house, though maybe on a different car. Donald Campbell and Bluebird still loom large in pub decor.

Coniston, behind the Black Bull
The beer is still fantastic. The Sun and Black Bull in particular are well worth a visit. Tonight I am likely to visit both. I am celebrating a big walk, my feet and body are aching, but one of those pints I will raise in celebration of 'The Lakes'....

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

A Calder Valley Ale Trail - UPDATED May 2025

The essential guide to the pubs and bars that line the railways in the towns and villages of the beautiful Calder Valley in West Yorkshire, an area which has a lot to offer and captivate the visitor. Here's the latest, updated version.... The original Rail Ale Trail heads through the Pennines from Dewsbury through Huddersfield to Stalybridge, or vice versa, depending on your starting point. Made famous by Oz Clarke and James May on a TV drinking trip around Britain several years ago, it reached saturation point on weekends to such an extent that lager and shorts were banned by some pubs and plastic glasses introduced to the hordes of stag dos, hen parties, and fancy-dressed revellers that invaded the trans-Pennine towns and villages. There are some great pubs en route and whilst things have calmed down from a few years ago, they can still get very busy on a summer Saturday in particular. However, only a few miles away to the north, there is another trail possible which takes in s...

Through The Garden Gate To The Tetley....

I went over to Leeds last weekend for a wander around which took in a visit to the newly re-opened Tetley, but first I called in at one of the city's finest architectural gems.... *****UPDATE, May 2026***** Unfortunately, The Garden Gate is now closed, seemingly permanently. Meanwhile, Kirkstall Brewery will be vacating the Tetley at some point during 2026 as the site owners proceed with the full restoration of the building. The two-year refurbishment project will create a public market hall and around 13,000 sq ft of office space. And so sadly more of Leeds's illustrious pub and brewing heritage is lost. ************ The Garden Gate is one of Leeds' most historic pubs, with a spectacular Grade II-listed interior which is up there with the finest not just in the city but in the country as a whole. Situated in the area of Hunslet about two miles out of the city centre in the middle of an unassuming low-rise housing estate, it stands alone on a quiet pedestrianised street in...

Amongst The Ghosts of Years Gone By....

A historic and attractive village set in the Pennine hills high above the tourist hotspot of Hebden Bridge, Heptonstall has often been overlooked but has recently been attracting an increasing number of visitors in its own right. I took a trip over there last weekend to have a look around this fascinating place where fact and fiction and truth and legend are often intertwined. And of course, whilst I was there I checked out the local pubs too.... Heptonstall is not so much steeped in history as completely drenched in it. Take a walk around the steep, cobbled streets between the solid gritstone buildings with their mullioned windows and the ruined church of St Thomas Becket and its historic graveyard with its worn and weathered gravestones, and you feel surrounded by the ghosts of years gone by. And whilst vehicles are allowed in the village on an access-only basis, with the 596 bus able to pass through on its way to other hilltop settlements nearby, the lack of much traffic makes it a ...