The definitive guide to the pubs and bars that line the railways in the towns and villages of the beautiful Calder Valley in West Yorkshire, now with an update in light of the 2020 coronavirus pandemic....
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August 9th, 2020.
The idea for a guide to the pubs along the railway line along the Calder Valley came about as I got fed up with people going on about the Ale Trail from Huddersfield to Stalybridge. I reckoned that the scenery along the Calder Valley was generally more attractive than its southerly rival, and whilst there were some excellent pubs along that route, there were equally some mighty fine pubs in Calderdale. And there was clearly a demand for such a guide: the number of page views I have had for this blog, which has been updated a few times over the years, is several times higher than my next most popular. I had been thinking for some time though that it needed a fresh look and a re-write; the inserted sentences and deleted entries means that it doesn't quite flow as it should, plus my style of writing has evolved over the years. And then the pandemic came along, the lockdown was imposed in March 2020, and this guide for the time being was irrelevant, although it continued to get plenty of page views.
And so the lockdown eased, and pubs began to tentatively open their doors a few weeks ago. Welcome to a world of sanitised hands, plastic screens, and social distancing. Whilst many pubs have opened, many have not; of the places mentioned below, The Jubilee Refreshment Rooms in Sowerby Bridge remains closed, and Drink? in Hebden Bridge is only open for take-outs. And with changes to opening times, I would suggest you should plan ahead, check online, and be prepared to have to change your plans. I will, at some point, write a new guide when it feels right to do so, but for the moment, with many people still uncomfortable about venturing out, this is the version as it was when last updated in December 2019, with a few added photos.
Thank you so much to all of you for reading over the past few years.
|The Market Tavern, Brighouse|
The original Rail Ale Trail heads through the Pennines from Dewsbury through Huddersfield to Stalybridge, or vice versa, depending on your standpoint. Made famous by Oz Clarke and James May on a TV drinking trip around Britain a few years ago, it reached saturation point on weekends to such an extent that lager and shorts were banned by some pubs and plastic glasses introduced to the hordes of stag dos, hen parties, and fancy-dressed revellers that invaded the trans-pennine towns and villages. There are some great pubs en route but you ventured to them on a summer Saturday at your peril.
However, only a few miles away to the north, there is another trail possible which takes in some great pubs and travels through some lovely countryside via the Calder Valley. Not only can it be done by train, but because the canal runs close by for the full journey, it is possible to visit a load more places by doing some of the journey on foot, or you can get to all these places by bus, but please keep an eye on the timetable. The area is compact; only 16 miles from Brighouse to Todmorden, with the journey by train 25 minutes - if you don't get off, though longer by bus. And this doesn't even take into account Halifax, the biggest town in the area.
Starting at Brighouse, the first pub is almost next door. The Commercial/Railway - the name was due to be changed but in the midst of the signs being swapped the previous owners left, leaving it in the unusual position of having 2 signs - is a proud, square, solid-looking building now with a mini beer garden. Inside you are assured a warm welcome from Trevor, Sue and team, plus a loyal band of regulars. As my old mate Harry used to say "you enter a stranger but leave as a friend." It's that kind of place. On the real ale front there are 5 pumps, including Copper Dragon, Tetleys, often an Ossett beer, and a couple of others. Beer quality is always excellent, and as you sip your pint you can join in the friendly chat, listen to the music, play pool or darts or watch the sport on TV. If you have enough time, a few minutes away is the town's first micro pub, the Market Tavern. Run by Snap and Debbie, it has 6 hand pumps offering excellent beers from the likes of Salopian, Abbeydale, and Squawk, whilst just over the canal is Millers Bar, which has improved significantly over the past 24 months or so, offering a good choice of beers on both cask and tap, good food, and one of the best beer gardens in the area. Another recently opened bar is The Crafty Fox on Commercial Street. This friendly place has a good range of beers on both cask and tap, with the likes of Vocation, Wilde Child, and Wylam regularly featured.
Take the Manchester train, and 10 minutes away is Sowerby Bridge. On the way the train passes Elland, the largest town in Calderdale without a railway station. However, if you are on the bus(there are frequent connections from Halifax and Huddersfield, and some from Brighouse), the Elland Craft & Tap, opened by Elland Brewery in a former building society branch in Autumn 2018, is well worth a visit for both cask and tap beers. You will get a warm welcome and you can read more here.
|Sadly closed at the moment: Jubilee Refreshment Rooms|
Sowerby Bridge is a traditional mill town and popular evening-out destination with plenty of pubs, bars and restaurants. Getting off the train, it is yards to the nearest pub. If you want to find out about the area's railway heritage then a visit to the Jubilee Refreshment Rooms makes for an excellent introduction. This was once part of the huge building that was Sowerby Bridge's station, from where a branch line headed off up the Ryburn Valley to Rishworth until it closed in 1958. Run by brothers Chris and Andrew Wright it is full of memorabilia, books and pictures, and hosts regular talks and exhibitions which explore the heritage of our railways. It is a friendly place with good beer and conversation, no TV, music, or gaming machines, drawing an eclectic mix of customers from far and wide, and serves a range of food at breakfast and lunch times with snacks throughout the day. There are normally 3 beers on, mostly from Yorkshire breweries. The legendary Puzzle Hall Inn re-opened its doors just before Christmas 2019 after being closed for several years, and is now run by a community group. It. The Hollins Mill, in what was until recently The Works, has some great beer and is well worth a visit. There are a few other good pubs in the town if you wish to linger longer, such as the Hogshead and the Blind Pig, which is situated in a former branch of the Yorkshire Bank, and was new into the Good Beer Guide for 2020.
Resuming our journey, the train passes through Luddenden Foot, where the site of the former station is passed. Here Branwell Bronte, brother of the famous literary sisters was once station master. Next up is Mytholmroyd, famous as being the birth-place of poet Ted Hughes. And guess what, the nearest pub is only yards away. This is the Shoulder of Mutton, which has a decent selection of ales and food. Close by is start of Cragg Vale, the longest continuous climb in England, as seen when the Tour de France came to the area a few years back, where the cyclists faced a climb of 968ft over a distance of 5.5 miles. Phew! Only a few minutes away back in to the village is The Dusty Miller, a solid building with some good beer. And now, recently added to the mix is an excellent bar overlooking the river, Barbary's, its name a reference to the infamous Cragg Vale Coiners.
Back on the train, our 3 minute journey takes us to Hebden Bridge. Ironically, for probably the best known place on the trip, there is no pub close by the station. So you need to head into town, around 10 minutes walk away, where there are a number of pubs to choose from. Calan's, a friendly, award-winning micropub which opened in 2015 by Alan and Alyson, was then taken over by Nadine and Damian who have now moved on to pastures new in the Yorkshire Dales, and so now is the Pub Hebden, having been bought by the team at the Pub in Todmorden. Over the years it earned a well-deserved reputation for excellent beer in friendly surroundings including the sun-trap yard at the front, so hopefully this will be maintained under the new owners. A few minutes away is the Old Gate, with a good choice of ales and food in classy surroundings. Across the road is Drink?, which originally opened primarily as a bottle shop with a couple of hand pumps, but since the floods of 2015 forced a makeover, it has expanded to 4 hand pumps and a couple of taps as well, and is another must-visit when in town. A further 10 minutes walk away from the town centre is the legendary Fox and Goose, community-owned and home to great beer and an upstairs beer garden. Back in the centre, next to the Picture House is Nightjar, a small, friendly bar which serves as the tap for the eponymous brewery in Mytholmroyd, and there is also Vocation and Co, set up as a joint venture between Vocation Brewery and the owners of the Old Gate, a modern bar with 4 cask ales, around 14 on keg, and 2 ciders, situated in part of the old Moyles Hotel. Here you will find a great selection of cutting edge beers from an exciting mix of craft brewers, including of course Vocation, and it serves some wonderful tacos if you are feeling hungry.
|Vocation & Co, Hebden Bridge|
From Hebden Bridge, the train to Todmorden takes about 8 minutes. Here you are spoilt for choice with plenty of pubs within a few hundred yards of the station. Right opposite is the Queen Hotel, now closed, which used to serve a decent pint of Moorhouses Blond Witch at one time. Just down the road is the local branch of the Wetherspoon's estate, the White Hart, a typical town pub with pictures of local interest. Turn left, and just around the corner is the Polished Knob, which serves a varied range of good ales at excellent prices. Not far away is the Golden Lion, which has about 4 hand pumps and is a somewhat quirky community pub with regular live bands and events, which also incorporates Tor Beers, a friendly craft beer shop with bottles and cans, a bar, and a decent outside beer garden. And the town also has two micro pubs, the original one is called simply enough The Pub, just beside the market, and is one of the friendliest places you will ever go and has a good selection of local ales and ciders. Along the Burnley Road is the Ale House, situated in a former restaurant and shop, which again is a really friendly place. There is always Pale Eagle from the local Eagles' Crag brewery on hand pump plus a number of guest ales. Todmorden is where Yorkshire meets Lancashire; it feels on the edge, not surprisingly really, with local governance from Halifax, an Oldham postcode and a Rochdale dialling code, as well as a large contingent of Manchester-bound commuters. And at the moment, it feels like a place on the up.
In all these towns there are more pubs and plenty of places of history and general interest surrounded by some fantastic countryside that demands exploring. The 16 miles pack a lot of contrasts, so why not give the area a try....
The Calder Valley is accessible. Trains connect from Leeds, Bradford, Rochdale, Manchester, Huddersfield and Preston. For train and bus information, visit wymetro.com.
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